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05 April 2009

Feria de Mataderos





Every Sunday in the fall, winter and spring months in Buenos Aires, the barrio of Mataderos (which literally means 'slaughterhouses' in Spanish, hosts a weekly fair consisting of traditional Argentine dancing, gaucho (cowboy) performances, and other live entertainment. Because it is so far from the center of the city (about a one-hour bus ride) most tourists don't venture out here. Today was the first day of the 2009-2010 fair, so I hopped on a colectivo (bus) with my friend Mario from Zurich and headed to the fair.

It had been a while (over a year) since I had been there, so I forgot exactly where the colectivo left from. There was an elderly woman standing outside of the McDonalds across from Plaza Italia (where most buses stop) so we decided to ask her if she knew where our colectivo stop.

Most portenos are not known for their kindness to strangers and some won't even bother answering you. Well this woman (who was holding olive branches in her hand on her way to church for Palm Sunday) not only took the time to give us exact directions to the bus stop, but she even came into McDonalds (we were in line for coffee) after she helped us, to tell us she remembered a stop that was even closer. In doing so, she missed her own bus - to help strangers. With all the crime and the problems this city may have, this woman restored (temporarily perhaps) my faith in humanity.

We got to the fair an hour later and I bought a pair of alpargatas (casual gaucho shoes) that I needed - my old pair lasted me over a year and it was about time for a new pair. I also got some early Christmas shopping done and ate some delicious locro, a stew famous in Northern Argentina and the Andes - and something that is not commonly seen in Buenos Aires.

On the taxi ride back, the driver heard me speaking English and tried his best with some phrases (such as "Buenos Aires drivers are crazy") so I asked him if Cristina (the current president) returned to London to participate in the remainder of the G20 conference after flying to Argentina to attend the funeral of ex-President Alfonsin. His response: "If she did, I hope she stays there." That is the general feeling of portenos here toward this current President.

1 comment:

Fourpoint said...

Matt,

I have a ride out to the fair this Sunday, and was wondering if there is a best place to park my Lincoln Town Car, I'm a little scared of the area as people tell me. Maybe you have an idea with one of the locals or something...My car kinda stick out here, both literally and figuratively! Thanks Matt...
Fred